An early morning arrival into Harwich gave us the chance to watch the sunrise and the steady stream of trucks roll off the ferry before it was finally our turn to leave the boat.

With a couple of hours to wait before catching a small ferry across to Felixstowe, we had a chance to reflect on what an incredible couple of weeks it had been. The weather had been kind to us once again, we have not had to ride in the rain at all.

After the Felixstowe ferry we caught an even smaller ferry into Suffolk and started making our way north. The roads and villages began to feel familiar, having ridden here before, and there was a comforting sense that we were nearly done.

A few final hills, one last head-down effort into Orford and we’d reached our final destination.

It’s amazing how quickly time passes when you’re travelling by bike. Two weeks, hundreds of kilometres, lots of memories, and a reminder that sometimes the simplest adventures turn out to be the best.

After a few great days in Amsterdam, seeing the sights and genuinely enjoying ourselves, we hit the road again and headed south towards Hoek van Holland.

Our route took us through the green countryside south of Amsterdam before heading across to Delft. We stopped there for lunch and had a good look around what turned out to be another fine Dutch city.

From Delft, we followed the Nieuwe Waterweg towards Hoek van Holland, where we boarded the overnight ferry to Harwich for the final leg of the trip.

After nine days of riding and 728 kilometres, we arrived in Amsterdam.

It was a gentle start to the day. Two coffees each before we hit the road and, being a Saturday morning, there were people everywhere, cycling, running and walking. It felt like the whole of the Netherlands was out enjoying their Saturday.

As we headed north the crowds gradually disappeared, and the riding became quieter. At Haarlem we made the right turn and set our sights on Amsterdam.

Arriving in Amsterdam on a Saturday afternoon took a little getting used to. There were people everywhere, bikes coming from every direction, and we had to quickly learn how to become part of the flow.

Then, almost as if by magic, we stopped beside a canal and realised we’d arrived. Home for the next few days.

Our apartment is a loft four flights up, so the first challenge was carrying all our gear upstairs before heading back down to ride the bikes to an underground bike park, where they’ll stay safely tucked away while we explore the city on foot.

For the next couple of days, the bikes can have a well-earned rest. It’s time to slow down, wander the streets and explore Amsterdam.

On Tuesday we’ll point the bikes back towards Hoek van Holland, with an 80-kilometre ride before catching the overnight ferry to Harwich, England, and then making the short hop to Latitude Festival for three days of music. Before that, we’ll use our time in Amsterdam and all the people to get used to being around crowds again after nine days on the road.

Today we needed a plan.

We had to be at the ferry for 11:15 to cross the Rotterdam container port. For me, it was one of the highlights of the trip. I love that somebody once sat down with an idea, then turned it into a plan, and finally into something on an enormous scale.

The port itself is huge. Much of what the ferry went through sits on the Maasvlakte, an area reclaimed from the North Sea by dredging millions of tonnes of sand. Today it’s one of the largest and most automated container ports in the world, with vast terminals, driverless vehicles, huge cranes and some of the biggest ships I have seen.

Most of the planning for these holidays comes down to two simple things, how far we want to ride and the places we’d like to see along the way. Everything else fits around this.

Today that brought us to Scheveningen, the seaside resort just outside The Hague. That’s one of the things we’ve really enjoyed about this trip. We turn up with very few expectations and simply experience wherever we happen to be. Lots of Dutch locals and tourists, the beach was busy, the cafes were full and everyone seemed to be making the most of the summer evening.

Tomorrow we head north towards Haarlem before turning right to Amsterdam for a few days .

Today we reached the fourth country of our trip.

Again, we seemed to sneak in without really noticing. No border control. No big sign. Just slightly different number plates and road signs that gradually began to change.

We joined lots of Dutch cyclists on the ferry across to Vlissingen, then continued north through Zeeland. Bikes everywhere. Every age group. Just people getting on with their day.

The highlight was crossing the Oosterscheldekering, part of the Netherlands’ extraordinary Delta Works. Built after the devastating floods of 1953, it is a nine-kilometre storm-surge barrier designed to protect Zeeland from the North Sea. Huge gates remain open during normal conditions, preserving the tides and saltwater environment, but can be closed when extreme weather threatens. An incredible piece of engineering. 

Riding across it, with the sea on either side and enormous wind turbines turning just metres away, gave us a real sense of the effort that has gone into controlling the water and powering the country.

After another great day, we arrived at our hotel. Bikes parked. Dinner. A glass of wine.

Tomorrow we continue north and take another ferry through Rotterdam’s vast container port.

I think we’re terrific travellers, but terrible tourists.

We don’t like crowds, can’t seem to find much enthusiasm for museums, and the thought of standing in a queue usually has us walking straight past. Boats, buses, horse and carts… they’re just not really our thing.

Maybe it’s because we arrive by bike.

When you cycle through a country, you don’t just see the destination, you get to experience everything in between. The villages, the back streets, the canals, the people going about their everyday lives. By the time you arrive, you already feel connected to the place.

We quickly felt at home in Bruges. Yes, the Market Square was busy and beautiful, but within a few minutes you could wander along the canals, through quiet cobbled streets, discover little cafés, local bars and neighbourhood parks, and quickly leave the crowds behind. It felt like a city that still belongs to the people who live there, not just the people who visit.

After a couple of days off the bike, we’re rested, refreshed and ready to ride again.

Tomorrow we head north into Holland, following the coast and exploring the roads to Amsterdam.

Somehow, we arrived in Belgium without even realising.

A 10-kilometre dedicated cycleway carried us out of Dunkirk. A right turn across a field then onto a canal path and things started to look just a little different.

It wasn’t until we spotted a shop called Asterix selling frites we realised we’d crossed the border. No passport control. No queues. Just another country.

Once you actually pay attention you quickly notice the differences. The houses, the signs, the language! All the things that tell you you’re somewhere new.

The ride into Bruges was a joy. Canal paths almost all the way, with cyclists everywhere. Young and old. Racing bikes, e-bikes, cargo bikes and everything in between. Here, the bike isn’t a hobby. It’s simply how people get around.

The infrastructure is superb.

For the final 10 kilometres we were treated to something we’d been waiting for all day, a tailwind. Suddenly everything felt easy again, and before long we were riding through the medieval streets of Bruges and arriving at our Airbnb.

Bikes unpacked and time to wander the city, find a drink and get our bearings.

We’re here for three nights so we have two whole days to slow down a little, enjoy Bruges, and recharge before we point the bikes north once again.

Some days you’ve just got to get it done.

We knew today’s ride north was going to be a slog. A strong headwind all day. So despite staying up to watch England win the football, we were up early for breakfast and on the road.

The scenery was beautiful, but the wind and the steady climbing soon started to take their toll.

On days like this there’s only one answer. Keep your head down. Just keep pedalling.

We made our way to Calais, and then came a 17-kilometre stretch straight into the wind. It felt like we weren’t getting anywhere. You just keep turning the pedals and trust that eventually you’ll arrive.

Fair play to Robyn. She never complains. She just keeps moving forward.

Then, almost without noticing, we found ourselves riding through beautiful old villages before the final run into Dunkirk. That was a surprise. Plenty of industry, lots of regeneration, and even brand-new roads that weren’t on the Garmin.

Eventually we rolled up to our hotel on the waterfront.

Another evening wandering through town, mixing with the locals and enjoying a Sunday night in France.

These days it’s easy to travel and experience the past and the present. Technology has made the world feel much smaller and accessible. If you want to know exactly where you are or what you are looking at the information you need is just a click away.

Today was our history day and another chance to experience France at its best.

As we rode, we tried to understand where we were, what had happened here and why it mattered. It also happened to be the weekend before Bastille Day, so everywhere was buzzing. Seaside towns full of people. Fairs. Fêtes. Families making the most of the sunshine.

It felt like quintessential France.

We finished the day in Boulogne-sur-Mer. The old town is surrounded by medieval walls and cobbled streets, with over 2,000 years of history.

Dinner was accompanied by a local French band playing in the square. A few streets later, inside the old city walls, we stumbled across a small but very loud techno party. Hundreds of years of history on one side. Thumping bass on the other. Somehow, that contrast summed up the day perfectly.

Day 3 started gently, with plenty of bike faffing before we hit the road. It turned into a long, hot day, about 90 kilometres with 35-degree heat in the afternoon and a steady headwind.

The conditions reminded us of riding back at the farm, although the scenery couldn’t have been more different. Today felt like France at its best: full of history, beautiful countryside and fantastic bike paths almost the entire way. We arrived at our Airbnb tired but feeling like we’d earned it.

Tomorrow is a shorter 50-kilometre ride. Robyn has promised to do a bit of homework on the history of the area, so as we continue heading north she’ll be our tour guide for the day.

It doesn’t really matter what you’re doing on a bike. If the weather’s good, everything feels easier.

We woke to another glorious morning. Sunshine. Warm already. Then rode all of 500 metres down the road to catch the ferry from Newhaven to Dieppe.

A smooth crossing of the Channel and by about 2 o’clock we were cycling through France again.

It’s always good to be back. Great cycle paths. Courteous drivers. Plenty of other cyclists. The sun shone all afternoon, with just enough breeze to keep us cool as we cruised up the coast to tonight’s stop.

It was hot enough that we decided we’d earned an ice cream.

Unfortunately mine lasted about thirty seconds before the scoop of French vanilla slid off the cone and landed upside down on the pavement.

Robyn went back to the vendor and, using a combination of very limited French and what can only be described as enthusiastic mime, explained that I was about to cry and could she buy another one.

They laughed… and gave me another ice cream for free.

Proof that sometimes kindness, a bit of theatre and good weather make for a pretty perfect day

5.30am this morning and we were off. The start of this year’s bikepacking trip.

Today’s goal was Newhaven, ready for tomorrow’s ferry to Dieppe. From there we’ll head up the French coast, into Belgium, across Holland, spend a few days in Amsterdam, then catch the ferry back to England from The Hook of Holland.

It was a glorious morning.

Once we escaped Bracknell, we were soon on bike paths and bridleways before joining the Downs Link that took us all the way to the coast. A left turn and we cycled through Brighton and then on to Newhaven, where we’re staying tonight before tomorrow’s crossing.

Perfect weather meant lots of dog walkers, runners and a few cyclists. Plenty of cheerful “good mornings” along the way and a few appreciative comments about our shirts no less. Life is so much easier when the sun shines.

A good first day. Back into the rhythm of life on the road.